Croatia in the Off-Season: Hidden Gem or Travel Gamble?

You’d be hard-pressed to snap a photo like this during what locals affectionately (and a little wearily) call “The Season.” No crowds, no cruise ships, not even a rogue selfie stick in sight. Just us, a quiet street, and the kind of peaceful stillness you don’t usually associate with Old Town Dubrovnik.

There were moments during our off-season adventure when we genuinely questioned whether we had accidentally rented out the entire city. We wandered the iconic Stradun in complete solitude, strolled the city walls with only the pigeons for company, and found ourselves as the lone diners in a Michelin-starred restaurant. It felt like traveling in a postcard — but with none of the foot traffic.

Croatia’s off-season runs roughly from November to April, and it’s an entirely different vibe from the sun-soaked summer frenzy. According to a few savvy locals, the sweet spot for visiting is late September to mid-October — when the beach bars are still open, the weather is pleasantly warm, and the summer crowds have already flown home with sunburns and souvenir magnets in tow.

By November, things slow way down. Seasonal workers head back to their home cities (and countries), and many businesses shutter until spring. From December through February, you’ll still find a few places open, but the weather can be a bit brisk — though as Coloradans, where winters routinely dip to negative 20°F, we figured mid-March would feel practically tropical.

March, it turns out, is a bit of a transitional month. Many restaurants, tour companies, and attractions are just beginning to stretch and yawn their way out of hibernation. There are definite perks — like off-season pricing and near-empty viewpoints — but it also comes with a few quirks. We were told more than once that Croatia was still waiting on about 70,000 seasonal workers to return and get things humming again.

While it was magical to have parts of the country all to ourselves, we occasionally felt like we were interrupting a locals-only pre-season prep party. Picture walking into a restaurant where the servers are genuinely surprised to see a tourist, like, "Wait… you're not from here? Already?"

One thing to keep in mind while visiting this part of the world: Croatia and its neighbors are still healing from a not-so-distant civil war. That history lingers in small ways — sometimes in the greetings, sometimes in the way people hold themselves — and what might come off as standoffishness is often just a layer of caution, not unkindness.

We were lucky enough to squeeze in some unforgettable day trips during our off-season stay. One of our favorites was exploring the charming twin towns of Ston and Mali Ston — known for their ancient walls, salt pans, and some of the best oysters we’ve ever had (yes, even in March). It felt like stepping into a quieter, more authentic version of the Dalmatian coast, where time slows down and the only real traffic jam involves a herd of goats.

We also crossed the border into Montenegro for a guided tour through the historic cities of Kotor and Budva. Kotor, with its medieval alleyways and fortress views, was nothing short of jaw-dropping. Budva, on the other hand, surprised us with its mix of ancient charm and modern beachfront vibes.

And because we’re unapologetic Game of Thrones fans, we couldn’t resist doing a walking tour through Dubrovnik’s most iconic filming locations. We stood where Cersei did her infamous walk of shame (fully clothed, you’re welcome), geeked out over Red Keep viewpoints, and even found a few hidden gems not on the usual tour circuit — including a tucked-away bar built into the cliffs that served up the perfect sunset view with a side of local wine.

✅ Do:

• Pack a raincoat and a power converter. Off-season weather can be moody, and you’ll definitely want your electronics charged and your head dry.

• Learn a little Croatian. Even a few words go a long way — the locals appreciate the effort and it adds to the experience.

• Tip your servers. Despite what the internet says, tipping is expected. 10% is just fine, but don’t skip it. Bring some Euros so you can easily tip.

• Download WhatsApp. We communicated with our apartment host and tour guides through this app.

• Know which gate is closest to your accommodation in Old Town Dubrovnik. Getting dropped at the wrong one (Pile or Buža) with luggage is a workout you didn’t ask for.

• Be flexible. March is a transitional month — not everything will be open, but it’s a great time for deals, quiet moments, and unexpected adventures.

• Be prepared to get your steps in. There are so many stairs. I think we walked around 25,000 steps a day and climbed hundreds of flights of stairs.

• Enjoy the quiet. Walking the Stradun or the city walls alone? That’s a luxury you won’t get in peak season.

❌ Don’t:

• Assume Dubrovnik Airport is running 24/7. Doors open at 4am, ticket counters closer to 5am. And no online check-in — you must check in at the desk. Plan accordingly.

• Rely solely on pre-trip research for restaurant hours. Many places listed as “open” online are closed until April. Ask locals or check in person.

• Worry about your credit card not working. Everywhere we went our credit card was accepted, even a local dive bar.

• Expect elevators. Our apartment was up a few stairs from the Stradun and 150 steps up to our room once you entered the apartment building.

• Take pictures or video the police. This is not the United States. If you are caught taking a photo or a video of the police, they will stop you and question what you are doing. This is even more important to remember if you are crossing the border into other countries as well. The police are not corrupt, so please do not worry about that, but you are not allowed to photograph or film them.

• Think the locals are rude. This is a hardened culture. They have been through a lot and simply don't walk around waving hello to others or saying things like "Good morning" to people they pass.

🍽️ Where to Eat & Drink (Even in the Off-Season)

Despite a fair number of seasonal closures, you’ll still eat and drink very well. Some of our favorite finds:

🥇 Top Meals:

• Taj Mahal (Old Town Dubrovnik) – Bosnian cuisine with Michelin-star recognition. Incredible flavors and cozy atmosphere.

• UMI Teppanyaki – Dinner and a show, with panoramic views over the Adriatic. You won’t forget this one.

• Rudjer Restaurant – Right by the famous Jesuit Stairs. Ask to sit in Dino’s section — trust us.

🍷 Bars & Bites:

• The Gaffe Irish Pub – Classic pub vibes. Gaffe 2 was closed, but the original was a solid place to unwind.

• Mr. Foster. This has by far the best cocktails (only served after 4pm) in Dubrovnik. However, they do serve coffee and have a full menu before the party drinks come out.

• Dubravka 1836 Restaurant – Great for food and drinks with views of the city walls.

• Nautika Restaurant – A more upscale experience with some of the best views in Dubrovnik.

• Panorama – Must-visit! Ride the cable car up and enjoy a drink with a stunning view over Old Town.

• Love Bar – Trendy and fun, perfect for cocktails with a view (check seasonal hours).

  ⚠️ Closed during off-season: Buža Bars (both cliffside locations), Bard Bar, and Banje Beach Club.

🧭 Things to Do, See & Soak In

• Game of Thrones Walking Tour – If you're a fan, it’s a must. Even if you're not, it's a great way to see hidden corners of the city.

• City Walls at Sunrise – Climb them early for peace, gorgeous light, and zero photo-bombers.

• Day Trip to Ston & Mali Ston – Ancient walls, salt flats, and the freshest oysters around.

• Guided Tour to Kotor & Budva, Montenegro – A full-day trip packed with stunning views, fortress climbs, and charming coastal cities.

• Ride the Dubrovnik Cable Car – For that iconic postcard-perfect shot of Old Town.

🎒 Pro Tips from the Rhodes Traveled Crew:

• March is kind of like Croatia’s dress rehearsal. Not everything is perfect, but you get the behind-the-scenes magic.

• Celenga Apartments is the best place to stay within the city walls. We had the two-bedroom suite at the top of the stairs, and it was such a quaint and beautiful apartment. The building has a washer and dryer and a host that checks you in seamlessly and is available if you ever have any questions.

• Locals are prepping for the flood of tourists — be respectful, tip kindly, and don’t be surprised if they seem a little tired of ladders, paint, and renovation dust.

• Don’t over-plan — some of the best moments came from wandering and stumbling into places we didn’t even know existed.

• Get out of the city walls and go explore the area. You can easily walk to several other locations within 20-30 minutes.

Rhodes Traveled